by Ash León
DISCLAIMER
It is best to consult a dermatologist and/or a licensed skin care professional before the introduction of any skincare product into your routine. The information shared in this post is not intended to diagnose, treat, or cure any skin condition or concern. I, Ash León, am not a licensed professional, simply a well-researched wellness enthusiast.
BEST PRACTICES
If you choose not to seek professional consultation for any reason (lack of availability, financial hardship, lack of medical insurance, etc.), I would start using any product containing active ingredients once weekly for one month, twice weekly the next month, three times weekly the following, and so on. Oftentimes, you may not need to increase the frequency of use to see your desired results.
Research! There’s value in knowing the ingredients you’re using, understanding their benefits and possible side effects, considering the testimonials and reviews of other consumers, and making informed purchases on thoroughly vetted products.
Listen to your body. You’re the one living, breathing, feeling, thinking, and acting in your body--work with it and for it! If something feels off, do not blindly ignore it for the pursuit of perfect skin.
If it stings, if it burns, if it causes redness or any other type of irritation, stop using the product immediately. If you suddenly experience any of the aforementioned reactions after using a product for some time with little to no issue, stop use or reduce the frequency of use.
If introducing two (2) or more products containing active ingredients to your routine, it’s a best practice to use only one (1) product for the first month and gradually increase by one (1) product each month after.
the routine
1 - PREP
To prepare my skin for cleansing, I like to preliminarily remove any excess oil and dirt by using face cleansing wipes (not pads.) I really use any brand I find in this dollar store because I don't use them as often. It’s important to note, If it’s been a low activity day, I didn’t leave the house, my skin is feeling sensitive, etc. I’ll definitely skip this step to avoid any irritation to my skin or disruption to my moisture barrier.
Generally, I like to do as many of my hygiene routines as possible while actually in the shower. I find this to be the most efficient, fastest, and thorough way to optimize my self care routines. Once I’m in the shower, cleansing my face is my last step after brushing my teeth, rinsing with mouthwash, cleansing and exfoliating my body, (shampooing, deep conditioning, shaving, etc. if applicable) and before toning and moisturizing my body. And, for the record--no, I do not keep my toothbrush or toothpaste in the shower but, I am a messy brusher and it’s just easiest for my childish ass.
As we know, pores do not open and close, however, pores can dilate and stretch which is exactly what happens when exposed to steam for some time. It’s very important to note that I try my best to shower with warm, not hot, water. As a result of the warm steam exposure, my blood vessels dilate as I also perspire. This process promotes and/or improves:
- circulation by increasing blood flow and delivering oxygen.
- absorption of products by increasing my skin’s permeability.
- collagen and elastin production.
2 - CLEANSE
After completing all my in-shower routines, to cleanse my face I use:
I love this cleanser. Two years ago I was on the hunt for a gentle yet powerfully nourishing cleanser… thank the skin gods I found VERIDIQUE Whip Cleanser. It has all the soothing properties of my favorite (but pricey) drugstore gentle cleansers plus the added benefits of vitamins and antioxidants.
The spotlight ingredient in the VERIDIQUE Whip Cleanser is cica (centella asiatica.) Cica is an herb found in many Korean skincare formulations due to it being sensitive-skin friendly. Cica is revered for its super powerful healing properties. In a 2012 study, researchers found that centella asiatica extract facilitates the healing of incisions and burns. Cica isn’t just a regenerative powerhouse; cica also has the following benefits:
- chemical composition of amino acids, beta-carotene, fatty acids, and phytochemicals, including vitamins C, A, B1, and B2 that stimulate collagen production.
- packed with antioxidants, which give skin an antimicrobial boost and provide anti-inflammatory benefits
- boosts circulation and blood flow to the skin, decreases moisture loss, and aids in cellular repair.
- improves the appearance of wrinkles and age spots and fights premature aging by protecting against external sources of skin damage.
VERIDIQUE Whip Cleanser is a super lightweight foam cleanser. I really like that only a pump or two is needed because I often feel I overuse foam cleansers. Surprisingly, the cleanser also has a great lather. The fragrance can be best described as “clean” and “fresh”, but definitely not in an artificial, pungent way. After cleansing, my skin feels clean but not stripped and has a refreshed look and feel.
I stumbled across Asantee Papaya and Honey Soap years ago in my search to remedy body hyperpigmentation and scarring from being either incredibly athletic or horrifyingly doofy. To be brief (but I will cover at length in my upcoming body care blog post), I also started using Asantee Papaya and Honey Soap as my regular facial cleanser. Initially, I was using it twice daily but I quickly learned that that was a no-go for my moisture barrier. Asantee Papaya and Honey Soap’s active ingredients include Papaya Extract (Kojic), Vitamin C, and AHA. While these combined ingredients team up harmoniously to enliven skin, it’s super important to take baby steps when introducing actives into your routine.
Since using Asantee Papaya and Honey Soap, I have seen a noticeable difference in the texture and brightness of my skin. Asantee Papaya and Honey Soap is marketed as a “skin lightening” soap and does significantly improve hyperpigmentation, but I have never experienced any overall lightening / whitening effects in the three years that I have used it. The soap lathers really well and because of that, a little definitely goes a long way. To avoid wasting product, I keep this bar soap in a soap saver. I’d describe the soap’s fragrance as “fruity floral with sweet citrus notes”.
A few non-deal breaker dislikes about the soap:
- It’s a bar. I’d prefer a liquid or gel cleanser.
- Contains coconut oil and fragrance.
- It stings if it gets in your eye. (likely due to the active ingredients.)
- Immediately after cleansing, my face can feel “squeaky clean.” That’s not always the case and the times when it is, it isn’t always an issue for me. I just think it’s important to note as an occasional possibility.
- Due to the papaya extract’s bright orange color, it can mildly stain lighter-colored washcloths, towels, exfoliating gloves, and soap dishes over time.
In the AM, I definitely use my fingertips to cleanse. In the PM, depending on my skin’s status, I may use my fingertips, silicone exfoliator, or an exfoliating glove to cleanse. I usually use my fingertips.
3 - REBALANCE + RESTORE
Once I’m out of the shower, I immediately spray Rosense Rosewater Spray all over my face and décolletage.
I originally found the Rosense Rosewater Spray back in 2018 at my local Marshall’s. I had always wanted to add a premium rosewater to my skincare routine and this stuff is THAT STUFF. The spray is formulated in the Isparta region of Turkey, a city known as the “land of roses” for over a hundred years. It is 100% pure and natural, having no additives, preservatives, chemicals, or added fragrance.
I always use Rosense Rosewater Spray after cleansing, before toning, and sometimes, I apply a spritz between each step of my routine. I absolutely love the restored hydration it gives my skin and the natural aroma of rose is to die for.
4 - TONE
After allowing the rosewater to absorb for a few moments, I apply TONYMOLY Wonder Ceramide Mocchi Toner using the terry cloth side of the April Bath & Shower Microfiber Spa Facial Scrubber or a cotton round.
I want to (and can) talk at length about the TONYMOLY Wonder Ceramide Mocchi Toner, but for your sake, I won’t... TONYMOLY can! Here’s what the brand has to say about their bomb ass toner:
“A multi-use, value-sized toner that works wonders? Meet our Wonder Ceramide Mocchi Toner, a hydrating, skin-repairing toner that nourishes weak, dry skin with a hydrating viscous texture so skin looks and feels stronger and healthier. Formulated with ceramides that help reinforce skin’s moisture barrier and EWG Green ingredients, our gentle, hypoallergenic toner provides daily care that helps strengthen, hydrate, and protect skin so you can achieve smooth, bouncy, mocchi-like skin!”
They ain never lied. There is absolutely nothing I don’t love about this toner. If I wanted to stop my routine right at this step, I could. It’s that good. My skin is left looking plump, nourished, and glass-like every time. I’m always in the mirror like, “Oh, bitch… you is it.” at this step of my routine!
Aside from the formulation being a godsend, the value is still wildly unbelievable to me. When regularly priced at $23, it’s about $1.35 per ounce for 17 ounces. At its frequently discounted price of $17.25, it’s nearly $1 per ounce! This is toner is also rich and silky in consistency so, a small amount covers a lot of surface area. I'd say a 17 ounce bottle lasts me about 3-4 months.
I am stuck on this TONYMOLY Wonder Ceramide Mocchi Toner 4EVR 4L. <333
5 - ESSENCE
Using that same facial scrubber or cotton round, I then apply Mizon Skin Power Original First Essence to my face and décolletage.
Mizon Skin Power Original First Essence was added to my routine a little over a year and a half ago. At the time, I was really curious as to whether or not a multi-step Korean skincare routine would benefit me. While my own routine has included serums for quite a few years, I had never used an essence and, I must admit, I was having a bit of F.O.M.O. As always, I began my search for a cost-effective essence with quality, premium ingredients.
The spotlight ingredient in the Mizon Skin Power Original First Essence is Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate, a by-product of fermented sake. During the process of fermentation, the galactomyces yeast break down natural ingredients that they have been added to, making new compounds that are beneficial for the skin (such as amino acids, organic acids and antioxidants).
I can say, without bullshitting, I noticed a difference using this essence overnight the first time! There was an enhanced dewiness and radiance, even after tussling with my pillows through the night. The next morning, aside from my skin looking hydrated, a lot of my skin issues at the time (texture, dullness, mild hyperpigmentation on my lower cheek) appeared to be instantly healed or improved. It blew me! I've been hooked since then and always keep a bottle ready because I notice a difference within weeks when I stop using it.
6 - GELS
After applying my toner and essence, I move onto, what I believe to be, the most crucial steps of my routine. This is where things start to get a bit mixxy, literally. I've always been an advocate of mixing products, not only for the purpose of optimizing my routine, but also for the gentle absorption of active ingredients in my routine. For this step, I combine the following products in the palm of my hand and then apply to my face, neck, and décolletage:
AM -
Earth to Skin Super Greens Nourishing Night Gel Cream - generous pea-sized amount
Cos De BAHA Hyaluronic Acid Serum - two (2) drops
TruSkin C+ Super Serum - three (3) drops
This gel/serum hybrid, I must say, is some of my best work. I had been using hyaluronic acid and vitamin c serums for years, and reaped rewarding results such as, improved hydration, brightness, and faster cell turnover.
What I noticed over time was that, as many estheticians warn, the Vitamin C was just a lil... messy, a cute girl, but messy. Due to the volatility of vitamin c, I'd experience sporadic irritation and redness around my nose, upper cheeks, and lips. I was conflicted because I also saw how rejuvenated my skin was overall, but these areas were so troublesome and constantly peeling and/or irritated.
For insight, at the time, after toning in my routine, I'd apply HA acid and then vitamin c, before moisturizing. No bueno. Then, I started mixing the vitamin c serum with my cream moisturizers. I could tell immediately that the creams overshadowed the vitamin c's potency, but I was on the brink!
Then, one glowrious day, the glow goddesses whispered in my ear, "Mix the serums with more water molecules for the HA acid to absorb." And what products are mildly viscous enough aaand gentle enough to carry the lighter consistency of said powerful serums? GEL-BASED MOISTURIZERS. Boom. Thus, the non-scientific method titled, GELS, was born. A lil suga, spice, an everting nice situation.
What I found in combining these three products as a gel mixture, before my cream moisturizers was:
- strengthened moisture barrier and extended hydration retention.
- gentle absorption of the vitamin c without adversely affecting its efficacy.
- overall better absorption of the ingredients in the steps to follow.
This step in my routine has been so skin-altering in the most beautiful way; it feels like a kiss on the cheek lowkey. Even in taking a break on the active (vitamin c), I still let Bubbles and Buttercup hit em wit the quick 1, 2 jab! I prioritize maintenance of my moisture barrier more than any other aspect of skincare, because I've seen how my skin, even with all the other buzzworthy ingredients, is nowhere near it's best when I neglect heavy hydration.
PM -
Earth to Skin Super Greens Nourishing Night Gel Cream - pea-sized amount
Cos De BAHA Hyaluronic Acid Serum - two (2) drops
TAZORAC (Tazarotene) Gel 0.1% - ½ pea-sized amount
As explained in the AM breakdown, Ima hydration harlot, h2o ho, woman of the water for my skin, In the PM, it's essentially the same process with the exception of Vitamin C and the addition of TAZORAC (Tazarotene) Gel 0.1%.
2012 was around the time when I first began to take a serious interest to skincare. I had been a competitive swimmer my entire life, a dancer and performer that constantly caked on stage makeup, and Lord knows toners and SPF were not on my radar. I could really start to see the wear and tear on my skin so I started researching, studying, making appointments and booking consultations, trial and error, eventual triumphs... the rest is history.
My first introduction to any acne medication was a prescription for Differin (Adapalene) gel given by my dermatologist at the time. Back then, Differin was not yet available over-the-counter so I needed an Rx and thankfully, my mom's insurance covered it. I quickly fell in love with Differin and for years it was a holy grail staple in my routine until... my skin grew up.
I won't get into the intricacies of my skincare journey as far as prescription acne medications are concerned because I am not a licensed professional. You should definitely consult a dermatologist and/or esthetician. I will share the concise version as a preface.
It's 2015-ish. My skin outgrew the Differin. I didn't have any bad reactions ever using it, my skin was simply no longer responding to its benefits. My lifestyle had also become more indulgent and hectic so it made sense. I turned to Retin A. Bad choice. It was entirely too much for me. My skin peeled constantly, was always dehydrated and dull, itchy. It was horrendously uncomfortable. I dropped the Retin A completely.
Fast forward to 2019. I visited my first dermatologist of color, a stunning Indian-American man by the name of Saurabh Lodha MD of Pure Dermatology in NYC. After expressing to Dr. Lodha that I wanted the power of a Retin A and the gentleness of Differin. That's when he put me on to TAZORAC (Tazarotene) Gel 0.1%. He shared with me that he prefers Tazarotene for patients with brown skin because its exactly the gentle and powerful solution our skin needs, if used as prescribed!
TAZORAC (Tazarotene) Gel 0.1% has done sooo much for my skin's texture and areas where I get hormonal breakouts, specifically my chin and cheeks. I've experienced no irritation or excessive peeling. It will definitely remain a staple in my routine.
7 - CREAMS
After applying my gel-based products, I apply my cream moisturizers. Sometimes, before doing so, I spray a spritz or two of Rosense Rosewater Spray. Mixing again in the palm of my hand, I apply the following:
AM -
Equate Beauty Regenerating Micro-Remodeling Cream - ½ pea-sized amount
Equate Beauty Face and Neck Advanced Firming & Anti-Wrinkle Day Cream - ½ pea-sized amount
Sundown Naturals Vitamin E Oil - one (1) drop
Now here's where I'm bout to really put yall on game. Walmart's Equate Beauty products is my sexy lil secret to cost-effective, premium skincare. Equate Beauty does a phenomenal job of formulating dupes of countless of the beauty industry's best-selling products.
Equate Beauty Regenerating Micro-Remodeling Cream is a dupe of skincare cult favorite, Olay Regenerist Micro-Sculpting Cream Face Moisturizer. I've been using this moisturizer for a few years and I can't even remember what I was using before this. I love the triglycerides in the formulation, as it aides in improving texture and prevents moisture loss. This moisturizer definitely delivers on its promise of firming, lifting, plumping skin. Whenever I run out of this moisturizer or simply take a hiatus to avoid developing an immunity to its efficacy, I notice my laugh lines are more defined with a few weeks.
I began using Equate Beauty Face and Neck Advanced Firming & Anti-Wrinkle Day Cream about three years ago as a stand alone AM moisturizer mixed with Vitamin E oil. While I found the results to be really good, they weren't great. I didn't see the glass skin I desired, but I was close. It was once I began using the Equate Beauty Regenerating Micro-Remodeling Cream that revisited this moisturizer. My reasoning in doing so was to stretch the slightly pricier regenerating micro-remodeling cream with the richer consistency and more affordable firming & anti-wrinkle day cream. By doing so, I am doing product reups less frequently and as for the skin results, the spotlight ingredients of the two creams team up beautifully to improve texture and elasticity, retain moisture, and even speed up the healing of blemishes.
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Sundown Naturals Vitamin E Oil has been a favorite in my routines yeeears. I use and love Vitamin E in nearly all my beauty routines because it acts a barrier booster, its reparative, it amplifies the benefits of other ingredients, ah ah ah. She's that girl, calmly.
As confirmed with Sundown Naturals' service team directly, the product is formulated with soybean oil as a carrier oil. I personally don't mind that, having used raw organic Vitamin E on my face. Raw Vitamin E can be a bit volatile on my face but I love it in my hair and on my body routines. Sundown Naturals Vitamin E Oil does have the highest IU of Vitamin E at the most affordable price at 70,000IU (or 31,500mg.)
I truly believe the one drop I use in my routine locks in moisture for the day and keeps out the bullshit whether it be pollution, smoke, or stank face from an unloved individual.
PM -
Equate Beauty PM Ceramide Moisturizing Facial Lotion - 1 pump
Equate Beauty Triple Repair Moisturizer Night Cream - pea-sized amount
Equate Baby Diaper Rash Ointment - ½ pea-sized amount
Sundown Naturals Vitamin E Oil - one (1) generous drop
After cleansing with Asantee Papaya and Honey Soap, I really want to focus on restoring my moisture barrier. I love the Equate Beauty PM Ceramide Moisturizing Facial Lotion because of its nourishing ceramides. The formula is super rich and I can just feel it giving my skin some TLC overnight.
The estheticians are gonna kill me but at least my skin will radiate from eight feet under. I started using Equate Baby Diaper Rash Ointment as component of my skincare routine when talk of zinc within the skincare community struck my curiosity. I had already been using a sunscreen with a high percentage of zinc oxide and saw how dramatically the switch from a regular sunscreen to one containing zinc oxide improved the appearance of blemishes. Ima keep it a buck witchyall. I could have just purchased a zinc oxide ointment but I had already been using Equate's A+D in my routine for years and the Equate Baby Diaper Rash Ointment was the most affordable option with the same concentration of zinc oxide as the more expensive ointments. I digress-adding this to my routine has altered my skin TENFOLD! For real, it's like the zinc is working magic overnight. Idk idk! It's verrry thick and chalky, which is why I use such a small amount and only at night. It usually blends out entirely on my skin, but depending on how precise my mixture is, some nights I lay down looking like:
Sundown Naturals Vitamin E Oil is definitely all up in the mix again for my PM routine. I use a more generous drop at night time.
8 - top off
AM -
After moisturizing I apply about three (3) generous pea-sized amounts SOLBAR Zinc Sunscreen to my face and décolletage. SOLBAR Zinc Sunscreen has become a holy grail that I will be married to 4L because of the following:
- Dermatologist tested and recommended
- SPF 38
- Fragrance-free and absolutely unscented
- 7.5% TRANSPARENT ZINC OXIDE
As a black woman, the transparent zinc oxide is game-changer. It absorbs completely sheer, to a light dewy finish and not that greasy veil many sunscreens leave behind. This is definitely one of those products that is severely missed when I run out.
After applying sunscreen, I apply Equate A+D Ointment on my lips. If unfamiliar with A+D Ointment, it's consistency is somewhat similar to Vaseline. Because it is so thick, a very little amount is needed.
PM -
I apply Equate A+D Ointment on my lips, eyelids and under eyes, around the creases of my nose, laugh lines and anywhere that may need a lil extra love overnight. Without fail, each morning my lips are juicy, plump, and ready to pop shit. My under eyes appear brighter and my troublesome dry spots are non-factors.
PRODUCTS MENTIONED
CLEANSERS
TONERS
ESSENCE
GELS
CREAMS
am -
PM -
FTC DISCLOSURE
Ash León earns $$$ on any qualifying purchase..
Truly for the people, Thank you sm ❣️
really needed some new products to try out, will definitely try out your recommendations!
As always…blown away ❤️ Thank you
Yesssssssss this is literally what i’ve been waiting for! best skin in the game and you laid it out beautifully thank you thank you thank you!!
THANK YOU TRULY!! FROM THE HEART! An answer to prayer and the guide I needed.